GSI Field Diaries - 2

 

A Day with Nyishi Tribes

( My thanks are  due to  my  Ph.D Guide and Senior  colleague in GSI , Dr. J.R.Kayal professor emeritus, Kolkata, for narrating the actual  events  and   providing valuable insights  while writing this article .  This write up  is based on experiences  during Geophysical  field assignment  in Geological Survey of India)

  “Licha, where are you going?”  The driver stopped the jeep and, with a broad smile, asked a passer-by this question. In almost every office in India, the word “saheb” is used. The sahebs have left, but the word has remained.Licha replied, “Pal da, are you well?  The driver Pal babu was also from the Ranga Valley’s Nyishi tribe.Pointing at the officer, he said, “He is our danger saheb.” Licha was  above forty.  Wearing half-pants and a shirt.  On his shoulder hung  a long machete.  He was fair, with Chinese or Mongolian resemblance. Face clean-shaven. A simple, middle-aged Nyishi man with a smiling face. Hearing the word “Dangarsaheb,” the officer smiled. In Assamese, high rank officers are called Dangar saheb.  If known earlier, the officer would have preferred to be called Chota saheb (junior saheb) in the region.

In Arunachal, different tribes have different languages, but in the areas close to Assam, these tribal people understand and speak Assamese easily. Without saying anything further, Licha climbed onto the back of the jeep. A slender bamboo pipe for smoking was in his mouth.  Taking a pull of the smoke, he asked, “Saheb, will you give me a job?” Years ago, Pal babu had worked here for five or six months in another earthquake camp as a watchman. Licha too had spent that time with him.Seeing the GSI jeep’s steering, he understood another saheb had arrived for some survey work in their Nyishi Valley. So, at the very first meeting, he wanted to secure a permanent job with GSI.Long ago, the white  Gora sahebs of British empire used to work here.

Travelling from the GSI’s Hawa Camp along Ranga’s upward course, the jeep reached the larger and beautiful Yazali Valley of Arunachal Himalaya (or the Lesser Himalaya).The first observation centre for earthquake monitoring from the Hawa Camp was set up in the nearby Nyishi settlement. For setting up the second observation centre, the officers  arrived at the Yazali Valley.After leaving the Hawa Camp, the jeep climbed to the top of a mountain within a short while. From above the panoramic  view of The  Ranga River and the Hawa Camp could be seen. 

LIcha invited the officers to his home. Using bamboo and banana leaves cut from the forest, a Nyishi house is built within two or three days. A high bamboo platform becomes the bed.Climbing two or three bamboo steps, the officer  reached the veranda or balcony of Licha’s house.As he entered , a broad smile and warm welcome flashed  on Licha’s face: “Saheb, come inside.”Crossing the bedroom beside us, the corridor took them into a long hall. In the middle, on a clay platform, a wooden fire was burning. Above the fire stood a three-legged iron-ringed stand—an oven. On it an earthen pot. The water was boiling aiding to keep the room warm. Around the fire, Licha’s wife made them  sit on wooden stools. Licha’s wife was a young woman, much younger than Licha, beautiful, healthy. A smoking pipe in her mouth. She wore a green lungi and a red blouse. She looked like a Mongolian woman. Their small daughter sat near the fire like a kitten. There was no furniture. There was a mild, mixed smell in the room. She showed everything. Then from an earthen pot she took quite a bit of marua grain and placed it in a bamboo strainer. Using a bamboo ladle, she took hot water from the pot on the oven and poured it over the marua grains. Just like tea liquor, a light red Apong drink collected in the glass or mug below the strainer.With a smiling face, Licha’s wife held out a small glass of red Apong toward the officer. She served everyone. They themselves took large mugs. The officer requested for  less than a quarter glass.He  watched with curiosity, asking questions here and there.

 But once the Apong glass in  hand, the Saheb was in trouble. There was no way to hide it. Everyone was sitting right in front of him.  If he  didn’t drink, it would insult the hospitality of these simple people. It would hurt them. Coming to see Nyishi people and Nyishi life—he had fallen into a real fix. He thought to himself: it can’t be poison. And even if someone gives poison out of love, maybe one must still take it. Gathering all his courage, he took a small sip. He have had fruit wine abroad. Wine is not a harsh liquor—very soft, very mild, sweet to drink. He had  no experience with local country alcohol, and never heard of hot liquor. With fear, he closed his  eyes and sipped the Apong. He  felt a soft, sweet taste. Not harsh. After the first sip, he felt no fear or discomfort .He felt a slight touch of intoxication. He forgot the smell inside the room.His mind was filled with curiosity again.Licha told his wife to make more Apong. Marua is a grain like mustard seed. The marua pods grow like pea pods; the seeds are removed by rubbing the dried pods by hand. This grain is soaked in water in an earthen pot for seven to eight days. A spice is also used. Above the oven, a bamboo tray hung for drying the marua pods. When dried, the grains are separated by rubbing them with the hand.

Just as we welcome guests with hot tea, they honour and welcome guests with warm Apong.

                                                       - Pankaj Mala Bhattacharya